Spanish Croquetas with Salmon, Lemon and Capers

I've eaten Spanish croquetas at many a tapas bar, usually filled with ham, and they're always delicious. But I wanted a seafood version of my own, and since salmon piccata is never far from my mind, these Spanish Croquetas with Salmon, Lemon and Capers became a labor of love.

They have the same crunchy coating and creamy béchamel center you know, now studded with tender flakes of salmon, briny capers and zingy lemon. A splash of white wine, reduced down with shallot and garlic, gives a little nod to piccata's bright pan sauce. A good quality tinned salmon works beautifully here, and so do leftover salmon fillets, flaked.

This recipe is part of my Feast of Seven Tinned Fishes series. If celebration-worthy tinned seafood is your love language, try my Tinned Octopus Ragu or Albacore Tuna Chowder next.

Why This Recipe Works

Croquetas are all about the filling, which in Spain is called the masa. It's a thick béchamel that sets up firm enough to roll once it's chilled, then melts back into a creamy center in the hot oil. Recipes vary a lot in how firm they make it, so I compared ratios across several Spanish recipes before I started testing. Ham, the classic filling, is dry and salty. Flaked salmon brings more moisture, so I landed a touch firmer than a typical jamón croqueta. It's still creamy, but it holds a round shape and stays sealed in the oil.

The flavor starts with shallot and garlic softened in butter. Then white wine goes in and reduces until the pan is nearly dry, which concentrates its brightness without adding liquid that would loosen the filling. Lemon zest and capers get folded in at the end. I tested batches with and without the capers, and the caper batch won easily. They bring a briny pop that cuts right through the richness and whispers "piccataaaaaa".

The béchamel cooks a few minutes past the point where it thickens, until it pulls away from the sides of the pan. That's the Spanish technique, and it cooks out any raw flour taste. And since everything in the filling is already cooked, frying just heats the croquetas through and crisps the outside. That's why it only takes about a minute.

Ingredients for Spanish-Style Salmon Croquetas

Tinned salmon. I used Fangst flash-grilled Faroe Islands salmon, which has a light char from the grill. It's a splurge, though, and any good tinned salmon packed in oil works. So does about 6 ounces of leftover salmon fillet, flaked.

Shallot and garlic. Minced fine, since they're suspended in a smooth filling.

Dry white wine. An inexpensive dry white is fine here.

Capers. Pat them dry and chop them, so you get a little brine in every bite instead of one big hit.

Panko. Spanish croquetas are often coated in fine breadcrumbs, but I prefer the extra crunch of panko.

A Few Things That'll Make This Easier

Warm the milk and add it in 2 or 3 batches. Whisk it smooth each time. Cold milk poured in all at once can get lumpy.

Lay a paper towel over the masa while it chills. It catches the condensation, so the surface stays dry and easier to shape.

Weigh your portions. At 18 to 20 grams each, the croquetas fry evenly and come out the same size on the platter.

Use a big pot. In a large Dutch oven with 2 ½ to 3 inches of oil, you can fry 10 to 12 at a time.

How to Make Spanish Croquetas

1. Build the base

Soften the shallot and garlic in butter, then add the wine and simmer until the pan is nearly dry.

2. Make the béchamel

Cook the flour for 2 minutes, then whisk in the warm milk in 2 or 3 batches.

Keep stirring until the mixture pulls away from the pan and holds together as one mass.

3. Fold in the salmon

Off the heat, fold in the salmon, lemon zest, capers, salt and pepper.

4. Chill

Spread the masa on a plate to cool, top with a paper towel (to catch any condensation), then cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, or overnight.

5. Shape

Squeeze each portion in your palm to avoid air pockets, then roll it into a firm ball. Lightly flouring your hands helps.

6. Bread

Dredge in flour, dip in egg, coat in panko, then chill for 30 minutes.

7. Fry

Fry at 360°F until deep golden, about 60-90 seconds.

8. Garnish and serve

Top each with a dollop of crème fraîche, a lemon zest curl and a chive spear, with lemon wedges on the side.

An Easy Canned Salmon Appetizer for the Holidays

One batch makes 25 to 30 croquetas, enough for 6 to 8 people as part of a spread. The garnish takes a minute per platter, and since the croquetas can be fried ahead (see the notes), you're not stuck at the stove when guests arrive. If you're building a full seafood appetizer table, they're great alongside my Shrimp and Grits Bites, Smoked Tuna Dip and Hot Crab and Spinach Dip.

What are croquetas?

Croquetas are small fritters made from a thick béchamel mixed with a filling, then breaded and fried. They're a staple of Spanish tapas bars, where jamón (cured ham) is the classic, but you'll also find them made with salt cod, shrimp, chicken and cheese. Cuban croquetas are a close cousin, usually made with ham and shaped into longer logs.

Are these the same as salmon croquettes?

Probably not! In the American South, salmon croquettes are pan-fried patties made from canned salmon, egg and crackers or breadcrumbs, like my salmon patties. Spanish croquetas are a completely different dish: the salmon is suspended in a creamy béchamel, so the inside is soft and molten rather than flaky.

Can I air fry croquetas?

I tested it, and frying won. The creamy center needs fast, high heat to set and brown the crust before the filling softens, and frying does that in about a minute. Where the air fryer shines is reheating croquetas you've already fried, which makes them a solid make-ahead appetizer.

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